April 10, 2024 Marietta to Cape Town, South Africa
Thanks to Lyft, I enjoyed a very smooth ride to the airport and an even easier check-in on my Delta flight. I quickly settled in the Sky Lounge while enjoying a glass of wine and a tasty dinner. I went to the gate at the appropriate time and unfortunately learned that the flight was delayed. My worst nightmare was coming true. A little backstory - when I booked my flight, months ago, I was concerned because I only had an hour and twenty-three minutes to connect to my next flight. I was assured by Tauck, my travel agent, and Delta that I would be fine since Johannesburg is a small airport (misinformation). Truthfully, this connection was the only thing worrying me about the entire trip. What was equally concerning was my plane had been sitting in Atlanta since 0945 hours, and the reason for the delay was that the plane needed servicing???? Really??? What was preventing this from happening during the past 12 hours? Oh well. I now had 14 hours to worry about making that connection. Once the plane landed in Jo-Burg, Jen (my sweet seat partner) and all of the passengers around me, encouraged me to be the first person off the plane, which I gladly accepted since I now had 53 minutes to make my connection. At the end of the jetway, was an angel holding a sign with my name, as well as another passenger's name. She advised me to quickly clear customs and she would meet me at the baggage carousel. Luckily, my luggage was the third piece off, and we (a sweet young man from Alpharetta named Jaar and the airport employee) literally ran from the International Terminal to the Domestic Terminal. During our jog, Jaar assured me that if I missed the plane, he would too. He promised NOT to leave me at the airport. So sweet. We made it on the connecting flight and the door was promptly closed behind us. I was drenched from the run, but oh so grateful not to have to spend the night in Johannesburg! We arrived at the beautiful, spotlessly clean Cape Town Airport where I was greeted by a delightful lady, Suzanne, from Tauck. My luggage was whisked away, and we hopped into a lovely van destined for the Cape Grace Hotel. This charming hotel is found on the prestigious Conde Nast Traveler's Gold List and is located on the waterfront in the heart of the city. The folks at reception were delightful, helping me with all sorts of information. I showered and dropped into an incredibly comfortable bed, setting my alarm for 7:00 AM.
April 12, 2024 - Cape Town
Refreshed from a good night's sleep, I enjoyed a delicious breakfast overlooking the harbor and Table Mountain. Unfortunately, the coffee was a bit thick, so I switched to a local recommendation of Rooibus tea. I immediately fell in love with this tea! The avocado toast was amazing!
I had hoped to visit Robbin Island, but there were no tickets available so I booked a driver and off we went to the Jewish Museum/Holocaust Museum. Again, a sweet angel, a local docent was available to guide me through South Africa's oldest synagogue! What a treat. I made a few purchases in the gift shop.
I met up with my driver who took me to the Bo-Kapp section before dropping me off at the mall.
I needed a South African outlet adapter, a lightweight jacket, and a flat iron. I was shocked at how inexpensive everything was! The mall was delightful, and I even started purchasing a few treasures to take home. By now, it was time to walk the short distance back to the Cape Grace to get ready for our 6:00 Welcome Reception.
Immediately, I felt at ease with all my fellow travelers. EVERYONE was friendly, kind, and excited about our upcoming travels. I chatted with Debbie, Richard, Larry, Diane, Rod, and Cyndy. Our tour director, Deanne Inman, was charming and should have been a comedian. I loved her quick, dry wit. Several couples invited me to dine with them. I knew there were more solo travelers, but the couples were so friendly, that I opted to dine with them (Eliot and Deedee) rather than search out the other solos. I had ostrich for my entree, and it was quite tasty!
April 13, 2924 - Cape Town and the Winelands
After another delicious breakfast, we had a lecture on apartheid from Christo Brand, the former guard of Melson Madela. Mr. Brand was such an engaging speaker. He signed a copy of his book which I'm looking forward to reading. We then boarded the bus, with assigned seats (felt like I was on a field trip), and traveled by the City Hall, Parliament, and St. George's Cathedral (where Desmond Tutu was inaugurated as Archbishop.) Next, we traveled on a rotating cable car, rotating 360 degrees, to the top of Table Mountain. I have my first African animal spotting, a hyrax.
The views were spectacular. We then traveled to Kirstenbosch Gardens, which was no easy feat since a marathon was in progress, in fact, we crossed through (Oy) the runners! This national botanical garden highlights the unique plant life of South Africa. We had a fun lunch a Moyo eating traditional African foods AND having our faces painted. Yep, this was definitely feeling like a field trip.
Next stop was the Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art Africa (MOCAA) where I wished I had a better appreciation of contemporary art. My favorite part was the very colorful bathroom. Sorry, art lovers, but some of the art was scary, like nightmare-producing pieces.
Our next destination is Constantia vineyards in the Cape Winelands.
I had read about this area in "The Covenant" and was beyond delighted to view these very old vineyards. The scenery was stunning! Our wine pairing dinner was located at a Chaine des Rotisseurs restaurant located on a five-star resort. WOW! The wine was divine, but unfortunately could not be sent back to the States.Greg was particularly unhappy! I tried Antelope, but it was a bit too gamey for my taste. Luckily, the rest of the meal was great.
April 14, 2024, Cape Peninsula
We boarded the bus, but with different seats - apparently, we have a new seat assignment every day! We traveled to Cape Point which was EXTREMELY windy, I'm talking hurricane winds! Luckily, the funicular was still operating, to the historic lighthouse. I decided to quickly go back down before the funicular was closed, leaving a long, long hike. I shopped a bit and then went outside to take pictures.
Literally, I had to brace myself against a car to keep from being blown away! While being photographed at the Cape of Good Hope, I had to hold on to keep upright. This is the point where the Atlantic Ocean meets the Indian Ocean. We saw plenty of sea lions, ostrich, antelope, and steenbok.
We rode along the Indian Ocean on our way to a coastal restaurant. After our fabulous lunch, we walked down to Boulders Beach to view the African penguins. I was in heaven! They are absolutely adorable and make the sound of a donkey. If I had only known how close we were to these cute penguins, I would have skipped lunch to spend more time with them! Naturally, I was the last person back on the bus because I had a difficult time saying farewell to these darling creatures.
It was a quiet ride back to the Cape Grace because everyone's jetlag was finally catching up! I quickly freshened up, then met Patti to return to the mall. Next to the mall, was an amazing African Artists shop. Oh wow, I could have spent hours, and lots of money, here. Unfortunately, we have a 44-pound weight restriction, so all of my purchases had to be small and light-weight. After shopping, we enjoyed some delicious South African wine. As we were deciding about dinner, we bumped into Larry, Diane, Rich, and Debbie, so we all dined together. We called it an early night because we needed to repack as we sadly leave Cape Town tomorrow. Each day I call home on WhatsAp, and the connection is always crystal clear!
April 15, 2024 - Kruger National Park
Back to the Cape Town Airport to fly to Skukuza airstrip adjoining Kruger National Park and on to Lion Sands-Kruger National Park. Kruger National Park is thought to host more mammal species than any other game reserve on the continent. Lion Sands has Tinga Lodge and Narina Lodge, both located in a private riverside setting inside the park, home to many endangered and rare animals, birds, and reptiles.
We are met at the airport in our Safari vehicle, and taken to lunch, on a lovely deck next to the river. Cute little spider monkeys are everywhere. One strolls over to our table and tries to remove a piece of bread, but Diane hisses at him. He promptly slaps her on the butt! The poor server looked as if he was going to have a stroke, and quickly chased the monkey up a tree. The monkey gave us the stink eye for the remainder of our meal!
Everyone is escorted to our rooms. Mine was #3. Holy Moly! I've never stayed in such a glamorous place. Words, even pictures, don't do it justice.
We were advised NOT to walk alone outside after dark, but to call for an escort. After hearing the creepy mating calls of the nearby hippo, they won't have to worry about me disobeying that request.
Three PM is always "High Tea" time so we assemble, only to find enough food to feed all the hungry of South Africa. We're all still very full from lunch but manage to down a significant amount of food. I avoided all beverages because I had already been warned about "decanting" while on safari. IF you have to go to the bathroom, you announce that you need to decant. The safari driver stops, and the guide with his weapon, dismounts and escorts you to the back of the vehicle. All the passengers are supposed to talk so no one hearts you decant. Personally, I would rather die of uremic poisoning than decant.
So, at 4:00 PM, off we go on our first Game Drive with strict instructions not to stand up, or put your arms or legs out of the vehicle, because otherwise, you become food. Our first spotting, antelope/steenbok. Next, we see these gorgeous birds, African Lilac Breasted Rollers, that look like flying rainbows as they fly across the sky.
Next, we find elephants. Now you're talking - one of the Big Five. Personally, I felt that we were a bit close to the massive creatures.
We're on a mission to find a lion, crossing over bridges that resemble duck-tape-type construction. Apparently, two male lions have just consumed their kill and are resting. We eventually find them. They appear to be in a food coma! Every once in a while, they lift up their heads, sniff around, yawn, stretch, and go back to sleep. Quite entertaining.
We continue driving for a while when suddenly our driver says, "We have a flat tire, so we're going to pull off to change it." Here I sit in the very back, three platforms up, and I didn't feel anything. Strange. We stop and are told to dismount. Everyone is walking around looking for the flat tire. Meanwhile, the tracker and driver are setting up a portable bar for our "sunset watching happy hour" - now does Tauck know how to do it or what?
I'm still a little concerned about the whole decanting thing, and I think about which alcoholic beverage will go through my body the slowest when one of my fellow travelers announces that we only have 45 minutes until we return for dinner. Whew! So I tried "pink tonic and gin" which was quite refreshing.
By now, it's dark and starting to get a bit chilly. We pull out the blankets and put on jackets. Our tracker spots a tiny chameleon in a tree. How? Beats me! I'm busy focusing on the fantastic sky. OMG - the stars are like nothing I've ever seen.
Sitings on our first drive - lizard, impala, long crested eagle, African hawk, lilac breasted roller, Cape Buffalo, guinea flows, flap neck chamelon, buffalo, and lion.
Back at the lodge, we enjoy another lovely meal on the deck. The hippos, several unidentifiable birds, insects, frogs, and who knows what else are serenading us.
We're escorted back to our "huts" where our mosquito nets have been dropped. I take a long soak in my Olympic-sized tub and collapse into bed. Our wake-up call is at 5:30 AM because our game drive begins at 6:00 AM.
April 16, 2024 Kruger National Park
I set my alarm for 5:00 because I was concerned that someone would forget my wake-up call. It was still dark at 5:45 when I was ready to walk to the lodge, so I called for an escort. I was told that it was light enough and to walk on over. So, I loaded up my gear, locked my door, and immediately faced about three to four DOZEN Steenbok. Drats!! I decided I would start walking, thinking that they would flee, but no such luck! I then decided to carry on, but just not make eye contact. They barely moved out of my way, so I decided to take a few photos.
Our game drive was waiting and off we went. Kruger National Park covers over 12,000 acres and has a very high density of predators, especially leopards. Shortly after we departed, we witnessed a stunning African sunrise as we rode over the river.
Immediately, we came upon Pumba, the warthog. Bless his heart, he isn't very cute.
Next, we spot a female leopard in the tree where she had placed her "kill" - an antelope. The male had already eaten his fill, and was taking a nap. The female, who had done all the work, got the eat the leftovers! Meanwhile, circling the base of the tree AND our vehicle were hyenas, waiting for scraps. Nestled in the tall grass were the two cubs - so cute!
Close by, the elephants were everywhere! One of the females kept throwing dirt on her back to cool off. The babies were darling.
Finally, we found Ari's favorite - giraffes! They are so majestic and graceful.
Time for breakfast, so we headed back to the lodge for a feast!
Today, we had some free time, so I attended a lecture on rhino poaching which was very disturbing. I then returned to my "hut" for a manicure/pedicure which was absolutely delightful.
I made a new friend in South Africa! I made a few phone calls home, recorded a few entries in my travel journal, and in no time, I was preparing for our afternoon game drive.
Tonight's drive was AMAZING!!!! We encountered wildebeests and then lots of zebras. I took several pictures of the zebras against a magnificent backdrop of yet another spectacular African sunset.
Tonight, we enjoyed a Tauck group happy hour as we watched the sun set. Once it was dark, the guys and our guides wanted to return to the place where the female leopard took her prey up the tree. My thought - why??? But, off we went and it was even creepier at night. We drove directly under the prey and it really looked like the leg would fall off any moment. If it did, it would have landed in my lap! To make things even worse, the hyenas were sniffing our tires. The guide assured me we were fine, and the guys were taking pictures like they were reporters for National Geographic! Okay, at this point, I'm officially scared. Michaline, sitting next to me, was equally frightened. Together, we whined and begged enough that the guys finally conceded, so we left.
On the trip back to the lodge, we spotted several cape buffalo hiding in the shrubs. BUT, we didn't return to the lodge. Instead, we met in the middle of the African bush for a traditional South African braai. The evening was magical, with beautiful stars, African music, and delicious meats/veggies barbequed to perfection. Another opportunity to eat and drink way too much!
April 17, 2024 - Lion Sands to Sabi Sands Game Reserve
Tauck asked us to please have our luggage placed inside the door for them to transport it to our next destination. This morning, we had our final game drive in Lion Sands. As usual, the sunrise was stunning and the birds were out to put on a fabulous show. We saw African woodpecks, vultures, Rollers, Blue Starlings, and spoonbills. Next, we came upon baboons, lots and lots of baboons. They were so comical. Sprinkled among them, were those feisty little spider monkeys! I could have watched them all day, but it was time to eat again. Right as we arrived at the lodge, a few sprinkles started, but by the time lunch was over, the sun was out as we traveled to Sabi Sands Bush Lodge located on the Sabi Sands Game Reserve, next to the Sabie River. Sabi Sands reserve is home to Africa's iconic "Big Five" - elephant, rhino, buffalo, lion, and leopard, but also has wild dogs, cheetahs and over 300 Species of birds.
We immediately went to our "huts" - oh, WOW! I was in #23. I unpacked a little and then walked the grounds. Baboons were everywhere, and the view from the deck was breathtaking. It truly looked like a movie set with antelopes, giraffes, monkeys, baboons, birds, and cape buffalo. Tea time - and since this is a British-operated resort, the word High Tea can't begin to describe the food and drinks.
Our new tracker and driver were delightful, and of course, we had a new group which was a lively, fun group. Our new group consisted of Greg, Bonnie, Ross, Julia, and Donna. We immediately started naming tunes for our playlist to accompany pictures. We drove into a troop of baboons, and I was mesmerized! Those little creatures are quite entertaining. The Kadu were everywhere, as well as the Spreenbok. We finally labeled them "prey" every time we saw them. The male lions were out and about, along with the black rhino. Soon the giraffes were crossing back and forth across our path. We enjoyed another Tauck group happy hour with lovely snacks. A favorite was the African jerky. Even I enjoyed it.
Our dinner this evening was fantastic! We dined under the stars with numerous stations to sample traditional South African food. I am truly enjoying the South African wines - Chenin Blanc and Pinotage!
April 18, 2024 - Sabi Sands
My alarm clock this morning was the baboons playing on my roof! Time for our morning drive aboard four-wheel-drive, open-top Land Rovers. Expert Shangaan trackers and experienced rangers help spot the animals that migrate through the reserve, including antelopes, kudu, impalas, and giraffes. The trackers are generational, much like the gondola drivers in Italy. Most of the trackers are from families in this industry for many years.
This morning, our ranger and tracker wanted to know what we wanted to see. Someone suggested babies, and abbra-caddabra we saw babies - giraffes, baboons, lion cubs, leopard cubs, elephants, and antelope. It was incredible. We encountered the lion families - two females, two males, and two adorable cubs. I was super busy taking pictures, when a guy in another vehicle said, "I don't want to alarm you, but there is a lioness right behind you!" I was so proud of myself for not screaming. That lioness was within touching distance!
After our breakfast, we had the opportunity to take a "walk around the bush" which sounded interesting. So, I slathered on my sunscreen, insect repellent, and joined my small group. I was shocked to see two armed rangers accompanying us. We walked single file, silently, behind the first ranger. He stopped periodically to point out interesting information. We did spot a cape buffalo, but, thankfully, it was far away.
Our afternoon ride was incredible. We came upon 400 - 500 cape buffalo just chilling. There were these adorable little birds, ox-pickers, cleaning the buffalo. One little bird was cleaning a cape buffalo's nose, so thus the new name "nose-pickers" became official.
At our happy hour, we were treated to some African music from our rangers and trackers. Then, we experienced a dung-spitting contest. I kid you not! They actually picked up dung and spit it. I was gagging. Two of our (male) travelers participated. His wife screamed, "I'm never kissing you again!" which brought hysterical laughter from all. We celebrated birthdays and anniversaries while enjoying the gorgeous sunset.
Our dinner was fantastic, once again under the lovely African stars. The weather was perfect, the day was perfect, and this safari is definitely perfect!
April 19, 2024
One final game drive this morning at Sabi Sands. Our tour director, Deanne, rode with us. We saw our usual big five and enjoyed the sunrise before returning for breakfast.
After breakfast, I did a little shopping in the gift shop, took pictures/videos of cute baboons trying to break into a hut, and attended an interesting lecture on apartheid.
We loaded up our vehicle and set out for the Skukuza airstrip. Amazingly, the animals came out to bid us farewell. First, we saw prey, then zebra, wildebeest, but best of all, an angry mother elephant chasing some wildebeest away from her baby. What an awesome sendoff!
Our flight back to Johannesburg was a couple of hours, so I read. Johannesburg is South Africa's largest city and commercial hub. It is also the world's biggest city not situated on a river, lake, or coastline. Jo-burg has derived much of its wealth from the major gold and diamond mining industries based there. We pulled into the beautiful, gated Fairlawns Boutique Hotel & Spa, and all I can say is OMG! The grounds are gorgeous and the architecture is stunning. I settled in and even had time to do a little window shopping in their lovely gift shop where I found an exquisite table runner and two table toppers.
I did not eat much dinner because I was simply not hungry. The food was plentiful and looked fabulous, but I just couldn't eat. I called home, then read in my super comfy bed!
August 20, 2024 Johannesburg
Still not hungry, I had my now routine Rooibus tea and a croissant. We boarded the bus, and I vowed to sit in the correct seat before exploring Jo-Burg. Our hotel is located in the suburbs, but it was only a short drive into the city. We drove by Nelson Mandela's and Archbishop Desmond Tutu's homes. Next, we toured the Apartheid Museum, which was unforgettable.
We were honored to hear Hector Pederson's sister, Antoinette Pederson Sithole, recant her version of the Soweto Massacre. The front of my blouse was soaked from my tears. She was an engaging, mesmerizing speaker.
We then drove to South Africa's Constitutional Court, the equivalent of our Supreme Court. There was a protest on the front steps which was quite interesting. It consisted of a group of elderly citizens singing peacefully. I was charmed. Inside, we were invited to listen to a mock trial.
We stopped for lunch at a delightful local restaurant. Before eating, a few of us gals went over to a local grocery store to search for African spices. My buddy, Michaeline, asked a lady she assumed was an employee if she knew where the spices would be. Unfortunately, an employee informed all of us that the other lady did not work there. We all exploded into laughter while Michaline apologized over and over to the lady. Lunch was heavenly, complete with tasty South African wine.
On the ride back to the hotel, we were given the option to go to the Nelson Mandela Mall which I certainly could not turn down. This mall was HUGE. I purchased a duffel bag because I wanted to store my luggage at the Jo-Burg airport while visiting Zimbabwe. I found exactly what I wanted as well as a few cosmetics and treasures. Our "limo" was waiting to take us back to the hotel, just a few miles away.
I wasn't going to have dinner but went to the bar to see if anyone from our group was having a snack. Luckily, Ron and Cyndy were having a drink, so I joined in until I got chilly and returned to my room. I repacked my belongings into my now two pieces of luggage and backpack, called home, and read for about two minutes!
April 21, 2024 - Jo-Burg to Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe
We watched our amazing tour director, Deanne, navigate the Jo-Burg airport like a pro! We were also told to keep our mouths closed as we entered the Zimbabwe airport! I was a bit unnerved by the idea that my passport might have to be surrendered to the Zimbabwe officials. Yikes! But, in the end, all that happened was a new page was pasted in my passport. Bizarre, yes; however, so much better than surrendering my passport.
Once again, on the bus, with NO assigned seats, we began our short journey to the famous The Victoria Falls Hotel, built in 1904. The elegant accommodations are enjoyed by celebrities and dignitaries around the world. It is known for the afternoon high tea.
We traveled to our private sundowner on the Zambezi River. Once again, the weather was perfect. Immediately, we saw hippos, lots and lots of hippos, then neat birds, crocodiles, and best of all, another splendid sunset. The drinks and snacks were wonderful.
Back at the hotel, we dined in the lovely outdoor restaurant where we were treated to traditional African songs, dances, and wild masks.
As I walked back to my room, I realized that I could HEAR Victoria Falls! Wow. From my bedroom window, I could see the mist.
April 22, 2024 - Victoria Falls
As I walked to breakfast, I simply had to pause and take in the gorgeous scenery! Wow! Victoria Falls is one of the seven natural wonders of the world. The Zambezi River plunges more than 300 feet into the Zambezi Gorge, frequently creating rainbows. Our privately guided walk around Victoria Falls was simply breathtaking. I had to cover my camera with a plastic bag because the mist was drenching us. I captured lovely pictures of The Devil's Cataract, Rain Forest, Main Falls, and Danger Point. I was soaking wet, so I went into the gift shop, purchased a new t-shirt, and changed in the bathroom amongst plenty of Japanese tourists.
Next stop - The Elephant Sanctuary where we learned all about African Elephants from a naturalist. We were able to pet and feed these majestic creatures! As Earth's largest living mammal, these "gentle giants" are very intelligent. The warthogs were hanging out, waiting for us to leave, so they could clean up the food that missed the elephant's mouth.
Five of us decided to take helicopter rides over Victoria Falls - best decision I made in Africa. The view was enchanting and my words/pictures can't do it justice.
Our final dinner was in The Livingston Room, where many dignitaries have dined. Everyone looked so glamorous, with plenty of pictures being taken, The food was amazing! Here's a photo of "the single ladies" as we became known.
I made my final purchase, a fabulous Zulu mask, and returned to my room to once again repack!
April 23 - Zimbabwe to Jo-Burg to Atlanta
After a final luscious breakfast at The Victoria Falls, I attended an informative lecture featuring David Livingston. And I HAD to take one (or two) final pictures of the mist from Victoria Falls.
I have really appreciated all the learning opportunities that Tauck provides.
Traveling to the airport was an adventure as we needed to exercise patience as all sorts of animals crossed the road.
Once at the airport, we were treated to live singers and dancers. We were served the same sandwiches as every other flight, but as it was Passover, I wasn't eating bread anyway.
Back at the Jo-Burg Airport -OY!!!!!! It was such a goat rodeo! My luggage did not come off the carousel, and luckily, an airport employee saw my distress and offered to help. Eventually, he located my luggage, and returned it to me. I retrieved my extra luggage from the storage facility and went to Delta to check-in. On to "Border Patrol! There are many, many custom booths, but only two agents working. Groan! Finally, I am free to do a little last-minute shopping. Once finished, I had planned to spend the rest of my layover in a Sky Lounge, but all lounges were at max capacity. So, I went to the gate until departure time. Farewell, beautiful Africa, filled with beautiful people. Until next time.
