Friday, November 25, 2016

Galapagos, 4 - 15 November 2016

Tuesday, November 15, 2016

It's our travel day, back to the good ol US of A; however, we were in for a bit of last minute drama at the Quito airport.  So, there we were, all settled in at the VIP lounge, when I heard a page for me to please report to gate A-9, our Delta departure gate.  I suspected, and it was confirmed, that my luggage had been randomly selected for a thorough search.  Great!  So, we followed a rather stern looking employee through the bowels of the airport to my luggage.  Turns out it was really Rob's luggage, but we didn't want to confuse the matter, especially since it was all of our dirty laundry.  All I kept thinking was, "Good luck repacking all of that, pal," as the guy took out piece after piece.  I was a bit concerned when he set the chess game over to the side which I had purchased for David.  Luckily, I had no contraband, and we were cleared.  Unfortunately, by that time, it was minutes before boarding.  So much for that VIP lounge perk!!!
The trip home was uneventful, and we actually landed thirty minutes early.  Customs and Immigration wasn't bad, Dan was there to take us home, and we were ahead of the Atlanta rush hour traffic.  Great way to end a truly once in a life time trip!

Galapagos, 4 - 15 November 2016

Monday, November 14, 2016

Our last day in South America, and I was determined to make it count! After a leisurely breakfast, Carlos, the Celebrity representative made a phone call to the local synagogue, Comunidad Judia Del Ecuador, to see if I could possibly visit.  At first, it didn't look hopeful, which I found strange.  I mean how many Jews would want to visit this synagogue in a predominantly Catholic country? So, I decided to head back to the local market.  Right as I was about to leave the hotel, Carlos tracked me down to tell me that he could possibly arrange an afternoon appointment, but needed a copy of my passport for the "background" screening" prior to my tour.  I almost skipped out of the Marriott to shop.  For $20 the sweet taxi driver (smartly dressed in his white shirt, vest and tie) drove me to the market, waited while I shopped, then drove me back to the Marriott.  As I was approaching the elevator, Carlos tracked me down once again to tell me that he had arranged a 2:00 PM tour.  Now, I was really excited.  I dashed upstairs, unloaded my loot (groans from Rob) and did a quick freshen up for my appointment.  Back in the elevator, I greeted a very athletic-looking young man in a sweatsuit bearing "Venezuela" across the front.  Another sweet British lady in the elevator attempted to make conversation by asking the young man if he was a hockey player (really?) to which he politely answered, "No madam, I am a member of the Venezuelan National Soccer Team."  That explains all of the security around the hotel.  Here, I thought some sort of political leader must also be a guest, but it turns out the Venezuelan team is staying at the Marriott for Wednesday's qualifying World Cup game against Ecuador.
Once again, I hired a taxi driver (also smartly dressed) for the thirty minute drive to the synagogue.  He was a sweet man, who spoke very little English, but exuded kindness as he pointed out places of interest. Upon arriving at Comunidad Judia Del Ecuador, I noticed that the security was quite tight - three armed guards stood outside the cement walled structure and proceeded to question my driver.  Finally, a distinguished gentleman came out and rather sternly said, "I thought you were supposed to be here at 11:30 AM."  I informed him that Carlos was told that an English speaking guide would not be available until 2:00 PM.  The gentleman looked annoyed, but motioned me to follow him.  I was not feeling the love, as Joan would say.  Slowly, he started to warm up.  He explained that the reason folks can't just drop by for a tour is that an extensive background check is run on every visitor.  The good news, he explained, is that if I ever want to tour another synagogue in South America, I am now in their system.  Makes me wonder what other systems I might now be in!
The history of the temple was quite fascinating.  It was founded in 1938 when a large number of European Jews arrived due to discrimination prior to World War II.  In its peak, it had approximately 5,000, but today it has only 600 members.  They also operate a top notch school where 90% of the kids are non-Jews based on their excellent reputation.  The new temple was built in 2004 when the older neighborhood became too dangerous.  Today, there are about 6 - 10 Bar/Bat Mitzvahs per year as well as about 1-2 weddings.  There is a small Chabad House in Quito, but the majority of the Jews attend Comunidad Judia. 


The above picture is a large room containing the original contents from the old synagogue!

There is a gorgeous, large social hall for special events!
By the end of the tour, my guide was joking around and sincerely invited me to return to services.  This was the highlight of my last day in beautiful Quito.
Upon returning to the hotel, I noticed several soldiers, as well as police with riot gear at the entrance.  I speculated that the Venezuelan soccer team must be getting ready to travel.  Sure enough, the police motor escort came to guide their bus to the stadium.
Rob and I enjoyed a lovely "last" lunch at the hotel's sports bar, then napped, showered, and packed for Delta flight 680 departing at 0039!

Galapagos, 4 - 15 November 2016

Sunday, November 13, 2016

It was a somber breakfast as everyone pondered how our time passed so quickly on this cruise!  We took our, sigh, last zodiac ride to board our bus for the airport.  To pass the time away before our flight we(I) shopped, had a few snacks in the VIP lounge, downloaded all of our emails since we finally had WiFi and eventually boarded Avianca Flight 1687 back to Quito.
Ahhhhhh, back at our home sweet home, the JW Marriott, Room 1036!  Rob rested in the room while I went on our last Celebrity excursion to the local market which was totally overwhelming.  I purchased one scarf, a lovely silver Star of David, and vowed to return tomorrow. 
Terry found this "interesting" hat - notice her signature flower pinned on the side!

Next, we went to an "upscale" artisan shop where I purchased a stunning pair of silver earrings.  After a quick shower, we joined Ed, Kathy, Billy, Bonnie, Les, Terry and a sweet British couple for a delicious farewell dinner.  Truly, the folks we met on this trip made the journey extra-special!

Galapagos, 4 - 15 November 2016

Saturday, November 12, 2016

Last day in the Galapagos, and what a way to end our cruise!  We began the day by taking a zodiac to Puerto Ayoyra.
In 1959, the Ecuadorian government declared all the islands, except areas already colonized, as a national park.  In the same year, the Charles Darwin Foundation was founded to promote scientific research and ensure the conservation of the Galapagos.  In 1992, the waters surrounding the Galapagos were declared a marine reserve. Upon our arrival at Puerto Ayoyra, we boarded a bus which took us to within a mile of the Darwin Center to see the large tortoises.
However, along the way, we greeted several land iguanas who seemed to own the road.  The cars and pedestrians had to navigate around them!
It was truly exciting to reach the Darwin Center to see the famous tortoises!

Now, the above tortoise isn't just an ordinary tortoise, it is George, AKA Super Diego.  The Galapagos tortoise population had dwindled down to just a handful, mainly females, with fears that these creatures would become extinct.  The Ecuadorian researchers located George, in the San Diego Zoo, who was then promptly transported to the Galapagos Islands!  Within a year, the tortoise population grew, and grew, and grew!  George obviously takes his job very seriously.  Job well done, George.  Another interesting fact about these creatures, is that the female buries her eggs to a specific depth which determines the gender of the babies.  The eggs buried deep in the sand, cooler nests, are all males, while the warmer nests produce females.  The mother intuitively knows which gender is most needed within the community!
While waiting for our bus, we were treated to another unplanned excursion, the local fish market!  The fishing boats dock at this local spot, bringing in their fish of every color and size, while the workers clean the fish, hand them to the folks who weigh and then immediately sell the final product.  BUT, you must notice all the other activity - pelicans swarming and swooping to snatch the "extras", a local sea lion begging for his share, and of course the "topless" worker!



My oh my, what a field day our US Health Inspectors would have at this place!  My favorite scene was a sea lion who appeared from nowhere, quickly snatched a fish that someone had dropped, flipped it back into the water, and then swiftly dived in for lunch!

After the Darwin Center we rode the bus to our next activity in support of the Galapagos Conservation and Community, as Celebrity Cruise Lines' guests are encouraged to make a difference.  How?  By planting a Scalesia sapling to restore the forests which had become sparse due to invasive or non-native species being introduced into the area. (Now the spraying of our airplane bins makes more sense!)  The largest remaining forest of Scalesia pedunculata is located on Santa Cruz.  So, we planted our trees, which came with identification numbers that we can track on Google Earth!  Rob's comment, "It's the first green thing I've ever done." Suppose you could say that we reduced our carbon footprint while in the Galapagos!

Back on the bus, we traveled to a local highlands ranch for a delicious buffet lunch, as well as entertainment provided by local kids!


Naturally, the teacher in me absolutely loved this!

Rob decided to go back to the ship with his appointed babysitters - Kathy, Ed, Bonnie, Billy, Sandy, and Robert - lovely folks we've befriended on this cruise!  I opted to take a hike through the tortoise preserve. OMG - these guys are even bigger when up close and personal!
Back downtown, I strolled along the streets, stopped for a quick email update at a local Internet Café, and eventually zodiac'd (is that a word?) back to our Celebrity Xpedition.
Our Captain's Farewell Cocktail was extra special as we were treated to a slideshow featuring the Naturalists' best pictures of the cruise.  Even better, every guest was given a CD of these amazing pictures.  Now, I must admit that I was fairly proud of my pictures, UNTIL I saw the results of their trained eyes and high powered camera lenses.  AMAZING!  While I'm very sad to see this cruise end, I know that I'll enjoy their pictures and my memories for a life time!


Thursday, November 24, 2016

Galapagos, 4 - 15 November 2016

Friday, November 11, 2016

Happy Veterans Day!!!!  Today's Option 2 excursion takes us on a zodiac, then bus ride to the small town of Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, San Cristobal Island where we visited the Interpretation Center and then went into town for a little shopping. While in town, Rob found a bench to guard, while I shopped.  While walking back to the dock, a group of Ecuadorian soldiers walked by.  How very appropriate for Veteran's Day.

Back at the pier, we found some sweet sea lions taking a snooze on the benches!!
One might ask how do these massive creatures get from the water to the bench?  Easy - they simply go up the stairs!
Back on board, we sailed to our next destination, Punta Pitt, San Cristobal Island, which is an impressive volcanic terrain at the northeastern end of this large island.  This is the only site in the Galapagos where you can sometimes find all three (blue-footed, red-footed, and Nasca) species of boobies nesting together! It was the only zodiac ride that caused me a bit of anxiety.  The waves were VERY rough, causing us to get fairly drenched, but the trip was worth it, because we did see all three species of boobies!



That evening, Rob, was our special entertainment as he sang (karaoke) "Rocking Robin" in the Discovery Lounge!



Galapagos, 4 - 15 November 2016

Thursday, November 10, 2016

Today, we had a wet landing with LARGE waves, on the northern coast of Santa Cruz Island at Bachas Beach.  The name comes from the mispronunciation of the word "barges" by the local population during the 1950s when WWII barges broke their moorings and ran aground on the beach.  We began our two mile walk (Option 1) when immediately a flock of blue footed boobies flew over, landed on a gigantic rock and started preening themselves to distribute the oil on their feathers. We also spotted hundreds of Sally Lightfoot crabs, flamingos, sea lions and pelicans.


Back on board by 1130 hours as we sailed to our next destination, North Seymour Island. Luckily, as we headed to the port, we were close to the airport, with CELL SERVICE!  I needed to book a flight using Delta Skymiles, but had no Internet Service.  So, when I called Delta, I told the sweet rep, "Listen, I'm calling from Galapagos, who knows how long my phone service will last, plus I'm paying a dollar per minute, so we need to talk FAST," which she did!  Mission accomplished!  Back to North Seymour Island.  This island is just north of Baltra and was formed through a series of uplifts of lava that was originally erupted underwater.  These sporadic uplifts took more than a million years to bring the island to its present level.  North Seymour hosts one of the largest colonies of frigate birds in the Galapagos. We left around 4:45 for our Option 2 excursion:  Zodiac Ride and Short Walk.
We had a dry, "cliff" landing and immediately saw frigate males with huge inflated red chests, blue footed boobies, and land iguanas. 

Then, right in our path, we watched adorable baby sea lions playing!
I could barely leave these two!  Next, we encountered a flock of frigates and blue footed boobies.  The frigates were buzzing and dive bombing us, which was I thought was amazing, when we came upon a blue footed booby and her new baby!
This walk was the epitome of everything I ever hoped to see on Galapagos, minus the tortoises!
Loved, loved, loved this day!



Wednesday, November 23, 2016

Galapagos, 4 - 15 November 2016

Wednesday, November 9, 2016

Trump wins!  Well, that news certainly created a stir on our cruise!  The way we found out was that someone received a text since we had no Internet or cell service.  So, on with our day.  First stop - Sullivan Bay, Santiago Island. As we were waiting for the our excursions, a sea lion hopped onto the zodiac, looked around as if to check things out, and then slipped back into the water. We loaded onto our zodiac for Option 1:  Dry landing onto a lava ledge, then long hot hike, about 1.5 miles over black rocks, footing often uneven.We hiked over this blackened lava landscape that was nothing less than a geologic wonderland. At every step we saw the hardened twists and turns of lava that flowed during a volcanic eruption in the 1900's. It was an overcast day which made it perfect to hike on the black igneous rock.  We did have to be careful of every step because the lava cracked easily and broke off.  We saw a tiny lava monster, one lonely cactus and many "pioneer plants" - weeds growing in the rocks.

After lunch, Rob napped and I went to the gym, embroidered on the veranda, and even took a short nap before our afternoon excursion.  We visited Bartolome Island, one of the most spectacular settings in the Galapagos.  As a relatively young island, it's volcanic origins are easy to see.  The view from the top of the island is perhaps the most famous in all the Galapagos.  We took an amazing zodiac ride along the coast where we saw sea lions, penguins, pelicans, frigates, and plenty of Blue Footed Boobies!

After dinner, the very talented Naturalists on our cruise performed several Ecuadorian songs. They are simply too adorable!

Monday, November 21, 2016

Galapagos - 4 - 15 November 2016

Tuesday, November 8, 2016
  Today we slept in as our Option 2 excursion, the Zodiac Ride, didn't depart until 10:00 AM.  So, off we went to explore Elizabeth Bay, Isabela Island, which is one of the westernmost points in the Galapagos. Our scenic zodiac ride within the sheltered inlet offered views of a wide variety of wildlife in the mangrove ecosystem to include penguins, turtles, diamond stingrays, manta rays, flightless cormorants, and


 blue footed boobies.  The highlight of our ride was when a blue footed booby flew directly over our Zodiac while the naturalist was saying, "Now remember, the feet will be tucked in, so you won't really see anything" when all of a sudden the blue footed booby fluttered his adorable blue feet for all of us to admire!
    Our afternoon included an extended Zodiac Ride and Short Walk, Option 2, in Tagus Cove.  Historically, this site provided shelter for wayfarers and was one of the areas visited by Charles Darwin in 1835.  We hiked up the side of a volcanic tuff cone to an amazing view of Darwin's Lake.
While it is "Election Day" back home, we're oblivious some 600 miles off land in the middle of the Pacific.  There's something to be said about not having Internet nor cell service!

Sunday, November 20, 2016

Galapagos, November 4 - 15, 2016

Monday, November 7, 2016

Today, we visit Santiago, also called James or San Salvador Island. Our visit takes us to one of the islands' most popular sites, Puerto Egas, where a salt mining operation existed until the 1960s. And we're off to our first excursion:  Option 2:  Short Walk/Optional Snorkel - wet landing for a short walk on mostly sand and a few flat rocks.

During our hike along the grottos, we saw ground finches, lizards, Galapagos hawk, herons, Sally Lightfoot crabs, marine iguanas, yellow warblers, and my personal favorites, Galapagos fur seals and sea lions with one week old pups!  Lucky us, we witnessed a sea lion puke and a hawk poop after attacking a heron!




Back on board, I recorded our amazing morning for future blog posts since we have NO Internet  while out on our verandah as we sailed to our next destination, Rabida.  We arrived around 3:00 PM, and our Option 2:  Zodiac Ride and Snorkel departed at 3:45 PM.  Each Zodiac held 16 folks and the drivers were AMAZING!  They maneuvered the Zodiac into the tightest places, then made sure that each side had optimum photo opportunities. The landscapes here are visually stunning.  The island is the top of an old volcanic cone bathed in crimson.  The rocks and sand are hued brilliant red and sit amid coves of clear blue water. We had a wet landing on the beach, complete with our wet suits, fins, masks, and snorkels.  We had been told that the water was chilly, but the sun was so warm that the water felt pretty nice.  While snorkeling, I felt something brush my tush, and I thought that it was Rob being fresh, only to discover that it was a playful, curious sea lion.  Turns out, both sea lions in the cave came out to play with all the snorkelers.  After our swim, as we were getting ready to leave, this adorable guy came up onto the beach and actually posed for pictures!

Each evening around 7:00 PM, a briefing for the next day's activities was held in the Discovery Lounge.( One bit of information, which I had not received prior to our trip, was that we should avoid wearing bright colors such a red, orange, pink or yellow, because it confuses the pollinators!) After the briefing, we'd sign up for either Option 1 or Option 2 for both the morning and afternoon excursions.  Option 1 was usually a bit more strenuous than Option 2, and a third possibility was simply taking a Zodiac ride after all the folks for Option 2 had departed. What a day! 
The meals are DELICIOUS!  The food is fresh, beautifully presented, and sized appropriately.  Wonderful South American wines are served daily.  Our new buddies, Ed and Kathy, have also introduced me to chocolate martinis.  Uh - oh!